Wednesday, February 25, 2004

Olinda, Pernambuco, Brasil

I had had enough of Recife. The city had come to a sort of halt. A kind of ghost town. I spent about three hours searching for a bank, many of which were shuttered, and some just didn't work with my Citibank card. I had someone call Citibank and they said a bank was located at 1377 Avenida Boa Vista. I walked there but it didn't exist. So I called this time and they said an office was at 785. But I decided to try a Brandesco bank. Some people had entered and broken the glass on the machines. Notwithstanding, the bank did give me some money and I went to pay my hotel bill. R$45 each day, paid in the morning.

During my quest for a bank, I entered a hotel and met a man from Sweden who had worse luck than me on the bridge. He had lost his credit card. Very amiable man. After I got my money and was leaving town he caught up with me and we chatted again.

Actually, I'm still talking about Recife. Earlier that day, I had taken a trip to Olinda, which is labeled a Patrimony of Humanity by the UN. I had met two guys, who I will talk about later, and had tried to get lodging in the center of this little town. The woman showed me a room and, with a straight face, told me R$1,500!! Got that? About US$490. So what if they have a pool? Swimming is not on top of my list.

So I left these two guys, of whom I will speak later, and went looking for a room. I approached a mulata at a window and told her I was looking for a room. Without saying a word, she looked off to the right. I figured that was her "thinking" posture. After about 30 seconds, I realized that was her "dismissal" posture. Her way of saying "this guy must be joking to think I would favor him with the time of day!"

I repeated the process and this time I was invited into the yard where a man and about four women listened to my desires. He told me to go up that road and make a left. I went up the road and made a right.

I happened upon a series of bazaars near the Igreja da Sé (a very old church). I bought a couple things from a man and asked him if he knew where I could find a room. He consulted with a couple vendors and Sandete told me I could have a room in her house for R$100. It sounded a hell of a lot better than R$1,500.

I'm tired now. Tell you about her later.

PBB

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